Runway Spotlight: Carven

Paris Fashion Week | Paris


Spotlighting a favorite from SpringSummer 2013:


Guillaume Henry took Carven in a different direction this season with designs less inspired by an almost childlike sense of fun than in the past. Yet the sense of play remained with full, flared skirts in wool and leather that floated down the runway, loosely-fitting trousers cut above the ankle as well as structured jackets with nipped-in waists and fitted shoulders.

Having opted for an autumnal palette for spring, Henry made it a noticeably subdued one at that: parchment, slate blue, gray, deep green, and dark blue relieved by the odd splash of white and rich tomato red, with relatively little black to be seen. Skirt and dress lengths varied from the classic just above and just below the knee to one several inches longer. Cutouts were quite noticeable, presumably a nod to the Sixties.

One standout fabric was the toile-de-jouy-meets-African-safari in traditional cream combined with terracotta or black. And there was leather in the same elegantly quiet colors (as well as chocolate brown) impressed with floral and foliate patterns and laser cut.

Perhaps not a novel idea for spring, but certainly an appealing one. | Katja Anderson



picture via Dominique Maître