Runway Spotlight: Haider Ackermann
Paris Fashion Week | Paris
Spotlighting a favorite from SpringSummer 2013:
Haider Ackermann proved himself the master of draping once again with his Spring|Summer 2013 collection. Jackets and sleeveless shirts undulated softly. Dresses trailed impressively behind the models, the flou beloved by designers for decades. Typical of Ackermann, there was a profusion of trousers, worn with obi-style black leather belts and that ended above the ankle, as did more than one dress.
There was a distinct absence of color; the palette ranged from gray to slate gray to charcoal to black, with white making a notably brief appearance. While it was another foray into androgyny, it was androgyny in its most literal sense, with a balance between the masculine and the feminine. A case in point: the most delicate, thinly-strapped supported floating chiffon dresses, but only just, adding an element of tension.
In addition to traditional stripes and polka dots, there were seemingly Japanese-inspired geometric patterns, more than one subtly metallic. Fabrics gleamed rather than glittered, balanced with matte silk, whether patterned or not. The pieces were dramatic, yet often sexy, with bare backs and shoulders. And a collection that, without question, compelled. | Katja Anderson
picture via Giovanni Giannoni